The River

Can you think of a river more synonymous with western fly fishing than the Yellowstone?  How about some of the most impressive scenery and wildlife on earth (elk, bison, grizzlies, majestic mountains, canyons and waterfalls)?  The chance to fish a multitude of feeder streams and other nearby rivers that also teem with trout?  Yellowstone is a true mecca for flyfishers.  Beginning in the Teton Wilderness in northwest Wyoming, winding through Yellowstone Park and into Montana to the town of Big Timber, the trout water flows for nearly 250 miles.  It is the longest wild (undammed) river in the lower 48 states (671 miles).  The Yellowstone is a "must fish".  Also, don't pass up a visit to Livingston, a small fishing town with a great bar scene.  (Note: Due to the incredible size and variety of the Yellowstone, the information below, more so than other rivers, is very generalized.  Be sure to contact a local fly shop before traveling).

Headwaters

The 30 miles of headwaters (or "Thorofare" region, so named for a key feeder stream) above Yellowstone Lake present a true wilderness fishing opportunity.  This stretch runs through perhaps the most isolated land in the lower 48, and can only be reached by hiking, horseback or via Yellowstone lake.  Allow yourself plenty of time, as the hike itself is 4 days roundtrip.  There are numerous campsites within the Yellowstone Park portion, but you will need backcountry passes.  Watch out for the mosquitoes and grizzlies.  Fish average an impressive 16 inches (somewhat shocking given the modest size of the river in this stretch), since they migrate up from the lake for the summer.  The water itself is a meadow stream, with many braids, riffles, runs and pools.  The area where the headwaters enter the lake is commonly referred to as Yellowstone Delta.

Upper Yellowstone

The "Upper Yellowstone", from Lake Yellowstone to the northern border of the Park, stretches 115 miles, coursing through two canyons that stretch as high as 1,200 feet above the river.  These canyons can only be reached via steep, rattlesnake-laden trails, which parallel and occasionally dip down to the water.  If you fish in these stretches, camping is generally recommended due to the length and intensity of the hike.  Water in the canyons is deep and turbulent, running over boulders that create powerful eddies and lots of pocket water.  Wade fishing is extremely dangerous, so you are better off fishing from shore.  The Grand Canyon itself contains two magnificent waterfalls -- the Upper and Lower Falls (110 and 310 feet, respectively).  Fish in this stretch also average 15 inches, as they, too, emanate from the lake.  Outside the canyons, from Fishing Bridge (just below the lake) to Sulphur Cauldron, the water is a broad, flat run broken by riffles, braids and pools.  The current is substantial and below Alum creek becomes too deep to wade.  The most popular area to fish is the nine miles of water below Fishing Bridge, including Buffalo Ford.  Access is via parking lots on the loop road on section of the west bank, along with several trails on both the east and west banks (watch out for grizzlies if you hike).  Due to the sheer power of the river and its often unpredictable contours, crossing the river by wading is dangerous if not impossible in all but a few spots, such as Buffalo Ford, which can only be traversed during low water.  The closest lodging is either in the Park's facilities or in Gardiner, MT.

Middle Yellowstone

The middle Yellowstone flows 103 miles from Gardiner, MT, at the northern border of Yellowstone Park (also the border between Wyoming and Montana), to Big Timber, MT.  In between is four-mile Jim Canyon, with humungous browns and class III rapids (which make catching these beasts no small feat), Paradise Valley, where world-famous Nelson's and Armstrong's Spring Creeks enter, and the equally famous town of Livingston, MT.  The surrounding country is rugged and breathtakingly mountainous.  Above the canyon is 

several miles of rapids and pools; below is similar material initially, which transitions to slower water until the the Paradise access area, where it picks up again.  Even in the "slower" areas, the water is deep and swift.  The stretch from the Paradise access to Livingston is quintessential Yellowstone, with twists and turns, deep swirling water, and rocky bottom.  The dominant type of trout shifts from Browns in the canyon, to rainbows in the riffles below, and back to browns below Livingston as the river begins to slow.  Access to the Middle Yellowstone is fairly easy, with a highway paralleling close to the river and numerous state-run access points, along with many lodging and eating establishments.  Bank fishing is popular, as the fish typically feed not far from shore.  Floating will allow you to cover more water and see more of the scenery.

When and How to Fish

Headwaters

In the headwaters, fishing is permitted before July 15 for those who enter the river from outside the park.  The best time to fish is generally August, but this can vary depending on the timing of the annual runoff.  Early July hatches include golden stoneflies, little yellow stoneflies and caddis. From mid-July through August you'll find green drakes and pale morning duns.  Trout enter this section from the lake in June to spawn, and return in September.  

Upper Yellowstone

The Upper Yellowstone opens for fishing on Memorial Day weekend on Grand Canyon and Black Canyon, but not until July 15 at Yellowstone Delta (just above the lake) and from Fishing Bridge to the Grand Canyon.  All areas close on the first Sunday of November.  The canyons typically do not provide much action until early July, with the Delta picking up shortly thereafter.  The window of opportunity is brief, as trout begin returning to the lake in August.  However, an incredible number of hatches are crammed into this period, including stoneflies, little yellow stoneflies, green drakes, caddis, blue-winged olives and pale morning duns, plus occasional tricos.  (Incidentally, the Buffalos get into the action as well, with breeding season reaching its peak in August).  Caddis often produce blizzard-like hatches in the summer.  While some of the hatches carry over into September and into October, fishing in fall is much slower, with most of the trout having returned to the lake.  In the canyons, the optimal time to fly fish is late June through early July, during the stonefly hatch.  Rain can raise and muddy Lamar River and cloud the water in Black Canyon, making fishing useless.

Middle Yellowstone

The season here is year-round, although run-off clouds the water from mid-May through June or July.  The 20 miles from Emigrant Bridge to Pine Creek Bridge is catch-and-release-only from December 1 to the third Saturday in May.  Hatches include midges in late winter and early spring before runoff, stoneflies during June runoff, and caddis and Blue-Winged Olives in July and August.  Grasshoppers and sculpins are also devoured by the trout.  In general, matching the hatch is not that critical and you can succeed with big attractor patterns such as Humpies, Wulffs, etc.  Other bulky flies such as Muddlers and grasshoppers also produce.

Click here to get driving directions to the town of Gardiner, MT.  For more advice on when and how to fish, contact the fly shops below or buy a book.  

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